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Posts Tagged ‘pierrot jacket’

Oops


So, it turns out I should be supervised when on eBay in my lunch break.  I kinda accidentally bought two pieces of gorgeous silk taffeta for a bit of a bargain price.  One’s navy (ear-marked for my eventual pierrot) and the other is called ‘electric blue’ but doesn’t look anything like what I class as electric blue, it’s more of a mid-light cerulean that’s been slightly desaturated.  That might just be a trick of the light/camera, but either way, I don’t mind as I love both colours.  In fact, I like most shades of blue, so I figured I was pretty safe!

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That pesky (and lovely) Idzit has gone and made the lovely hooded jacket in Patterns of Fashion that I’ve been lusting after since I first saw the pattern/sketches – her version is stunning, you should really go and see it.

Snowshill Hooded Jacket from Patterns of Fashion Vol 1

Looking at the photos of her creation and catching up on all the fabulous costuming blogs I read has rekindled my inspiration, which has been sorely lacking lately.  So, in the next week or so I plan to have my stays finally finished (I seem to get wimpy when it comes to cutting the real fabric, so these have been on hold) and I’ve been thinking about what I’m going to make afterwards.

My criteria are as follows:

  • Not too expensive – something that can be made up with cotton and that doesn’t require approximately 3 miles of fabric.
  • Not too difficult – because of my lack of stitching experience.
  • Something that has the potential to be modern wear – as I have no idea when I would have an opportunity to wear an 18th c. outfit and to justify the money, I want it to be something I could get wear out of.
  • I’ve gotta love it.  No explaination needed!

So, a jacket seemed the best option.  I’ve spent today and yesterday going through the patterns I have access to from books and have narrowed it down to these …

Pierrot from the Cut of Women's Clothes

I love pierrot jackets, and to make a complete ensemble, I’d just have to add a froofy petticoat, which shouldn’t be a massive challenge.  So in theory a pierrot would be perfect … the only down side is that this particular pattern looks a bit difficult with all those pleats on the bodice and I’d want to change the front slightly (to not have the tabs with buttons), so I’d have to think of something different to do there.  I do love the shape though – it’s just the difficulty that’s putting me off …

Which made me think – perhaps I could make this Anglaise into a pierrot by leaving out the skirts:

Anglaise from the Cut of Women's Clothes

It has a pierrot shape and pleats to make that lovely back, but it doesn’t have as many pleats as the above pierrot.  It also has that nice zone-type front.  I rather like the piece and looking at the pattern, I don’t think it’d take much to convert from gown to jacket.

Or, I could go for even simpler in terms of pattern pieces and pleats:

Polonaise style jacket from the Cut of Women's Clothes

I think this is a really pretty little piece and would work well as a jacket for modern-wear.  I love that collar!  And the fastening!  And those little cuffs!  It has fewer pattern pieces and pleats and generally looks like a much simpler garment to construct …

And this is along similar lines:

Polonaise jacket from the Cut of Women's Clothes

Though it lacks the cute collar and fastening, it does has its own charm.

And, lastly, the hooded jacket from Patterns of Fashion, as shown at the top, which I would make up in wool rather than quilted fabric.  I love this jacket so much, and I’m generally a big fan of hoods – I can’t be bothered with umbrellas when it’s wet, so hoods and hats keep my curls dry and frizz-free!

Any thoughts would be most welcome, especially if anyone’s made any of these or knows of other pierrot patterns.

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Not having the internet at your beck and call suddenly makes you get on with a lot of other things (or at least it does me).  In the time I’d usually spend researching and looking up things, I’ve been pondering what to make to go over my stays. 

Hmm ... maybe not?

Of course, there are things I would love to make and float about in, playing dress-up.  But there are also limitations, such as:

  • Money
  • Skill, or lack thereof!
  • Ability to get hold of a decent pattern (that is both cheap and fairly easy to follow).

Money is probably the main limitation (as I should imagine it is for most stitchers!) as it has the biggest effect on what I can and cannot make – nothing with masses of fabric (francaises are instantly out!) and nothing that I can’t justify making.  By which I mean that I can’t make something I’ll (probably) never wear.  So, much as I want a polonaise, I don’t have an event to wear one to to justify making one (sigh!).  (Well, there is an event in March, but I’m unlikely to have completed anything by then!) 

So this leads me to items that could work for modern wear:

  • The hooded quilted jacket in Patterns of Fashion (my version would not be quilted, but made from a grey wool, most likely).
  • A chemise a la reine (although I am currently considering it likely that I’ll make a modern dress inspired by a reine, because being of the short and curvy persuasion, a full-length, froofy white dress is probably not the world’s best idea.  The only changes will probably be to make it knee-length and not white, though I might go sleeveless.)
  • A pierrot jacket.

At the moment, the most likely one is the pierrot jacket because it would be very much wearable for day-to-day wear as long as I make it from a suitable fabric.  Plus, there is a pattern in The Cut of Women’s Clothes, which the lovely Johanna has used to make a very pretty pierrot.  I got the book from the library at the weekend – free pattern?  Check!  I will most likely change it to a zone front, though, as I love them something rotten!

Pretty Pierrot with Zone front from the Kyoto Costume Institute

The question being – what kind of fabric would work well without being too delicate/precious to use for every day?  I’m probably thinking a cotton, but I’m not sure which weight would work well – anyone?  Silk would be lovely, but again we come back to expense and it not being an everyday fabric for a 21st century girl.  There is a gorgeous cotton brocade that I have my eye on, but it’s so very not 1780s/90s!

Which then brings me to the question of whether I want to try a synthetic and go for the ‘look’ of accuracy, rather than actual accuracy.  I could get a synthetic taffeta or duchesse satin affordably (which would also be washable), whereas either of these in silk would be out of my price range and non-washable.

Then there is another question of working out a cunning fastening method that would allow me to wear the jacket over stays in a (mostly) historically accurate way, but that would still fasten up over my un-corseted form.  The problem isn’t so much any sucking in at the waist, it’s more that I have a smaller chest measurement in stays than in modern underpinnings.  I’ve had a couple of ideas for how to get around this, but as this is meant to be just initial thoughts, I’ll leave that until another day.  My main concern at the moment is about fabric …

I ask you, dear reader – what’s a girl to do?!

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