Feeds:
Posts
Comments

Archive for the ‘Corsets’ Category


As you can imagine, I was quite tired on Sunday, having gone to my room at 2am.  I managed to drag myself out of bed with some help from my friend Nikki who knocked for me to make sure I didn’t miss breakfast!

Which reminds me, I haven’t mentioned much about the fabulous service and staff at Jesus College.  The ladies and gents working there were so helpful and accommodating all weekend, serving up a full English breakfast with a smile every morning, cleaning up after us and providing endless cups of tea and coffee all day long.  Seriously, when I got home it felt weird to have to actually sort out my own food and drink!

Despite the fab food, I felt a bit ill all Sunday.  Not because of anything I ate (or drank the night before!), but because I was very nervous about my photo shoot that morning.  This was the first time I’d made a corset for anyone other than myself and there were no fittings – I had to make it purely from measurements, so I was doubtful it would fit.  I was also fairly convinced that it would simply fall apart as I tried to lace it up, which I know is illogical, but such is fear!  So, as you can imagine, I was getting a bit worked up.

Detail of the finished corset.

Detail of my finished corset.

Other than feeling nervous, the morning waiting for the shoot was spent adding further embellishment, chatting with my new friends and trying not to actually drool on the other amazing corsets they were working on.

As well as the photo shoots, Sunday brought us antique corsets from the Symington Collection, presided over by Sarah Nicol and her lovely assistant Hannah Wroe (a textile and corsetry teacher I already knew from Nottingham!).  Unfortunately, I missed Sarah’s talk as it was during my photo shoot, but I did get to go and check out the corsets after lunch and I am so glad I did!

This is the largest selection of corsets Symington have ever sent out for an event like this and it was a truly impressive array; even better, we were allowed to carefully touch and handle the corsets and take photos to our hearts’ content!  I won’t share them all, but this should give you an idea of how unique an experience this was:

Courtesy of the Symington Collection.  Many thanks!

Courtesy of the Symington Collection. Many thanks!

Courtesy of the Symington Collection.  With thanks!

Courtesy of the Symington Collection. With thanks!

So many corsets, so little time!

The absolutely stunning Bride of Dracula corset by Royal Black, brought along by Morgana (thank you!).

The absolutely stunning Bride of Dracula corset by Royal Black, brought along by Morgana (thank you!).

Alas, all good things must come to an end and the conference was no exception … 4pm came ticking around far sooner than any of us would have liked.  Looks were exchanged – the end was nigh.  And sure enough, Julia gave a short speech thanking everyone for their help, support and attendance, and announcing the end of the conference.  Had that really been a whole weekend?!  Was it over already?!

We dragged our feet and stitched a little longer, waiting for buses and trains, but there was no denying it – this was the end.  There were hugs, Facebook friend requests and even tears.  Somehow, this weekend of loving corsets didn’t just lead to that rather professional and perhaps impersonal idea of ‘networking’, it actually brought a lot of people very close very quickly and friendships were forged across the world, with many promises of coming again next year and looking each other up if we were ever in their neck of the woods.  Julia hadn’t even worked out whether there would be a next year at that point, but I don’t think we were giving her an option.

And luckily we didn’t have to – it has since been announced that the college has been booked again.  The Oxford Conference of Corsetry will happen again in 2014.

The journey home was a strange combination of subdued and excited – I was sad that such an amazing weekend was over, but I was also so inspired by everything I’d learnt and all the wonderful people I’d met.  There was much sketching of ideas, pondering of possibilities and pawing of finds from the swap and then I was home.

You want to know how good this year’s conference was in short?  Well, I’m already saving for next year.

Edited to add: If you’d like to see more of my corsetry, I’ve started a Facebook page, Magpie & Fox.

(And since my last post on this, Marianne Faulkner, designer of Pop Antique and AKA Victoria Dagger (model and the other model at the conference, as well as workshop runner!  Phew, multi-talented, or what?!) has posted her thoughts on the conference, too.)

Read Full Post »


So, I left off my report on pre-conference Friday by saying how lovely the other conferenceers (I like it, makes us sound like we should have cool chapeaus and big boots) were …

It was with these delightful ladies I spent Saturday learning about draping corsets on a form (much less scary than I was expecting, thanks to Gerry Quinton, mastermind behind Morua Designs) and the fine art of fitting (with particular emphasis on that trickiest of spots – the bust, led by an expert in that region (!), Alison Campbell, creator of Crikey Aphrodite‘s yumminess).

Draping design with my crew - Niki and Beth.

There were goody bags with pressies from Janome and pretty corset postcards (yay!), as well as a huge fabric and embellishment swap.  Seriously.  I don’t think all that stuff even left the building.  It might even have formed its own gravitational pull at one point:

SONY DSC

This isn’t even the peak of the swap. Sari fabric, antique lace, pretty, pretty things!

We even had media coverage on the BBC News website ‘in pictures’, a local newspaper and BBC local radio (Julia speaks about the conference at 2:25:20)

There was stitching, coffee and chatter (the three staples of any corsetier, methinks) between classes in our hub, with much setting of eyelets and other fun.

I hate setting eyelets.  It’s the most stressful part of corsetry, I think!  So there I was setting eyelets on Saturday afternoon, getting more and more stressed.  You see, one of the (many) awesome parts of the conference was the opportunity to sign up for a short photo shoot with a professional model and photographer and as my City & Guilds deadline finished just before it was announced that one of those models would be the multi-talented and utterly gorgeous Morgana (AKA Threnody in Velvet, a make-up artist and photographer herself), I thought this would be a good idea … Hence the deadline that’s kept me off-blog for a few weeks.  It was a bit of a scary experience, drafting the corset purely from someone’s measurements without any fittings, but this was too good an opportunity to miss.  Here’s a little sneak peek:

Late night phone snap, sorry!

Late night phone snap, sorry!

The photo shoots were Sunday.  I hadn’t finished the eyelets or embellishment and it was Saturday.  Now you see my stress?  Also, I loved the look of the loomstate satin I used (from Sew Curvy earlier in the year), but it frayed like a complete bastard.  Seriously – I think it gave me splinters.  So, more stress.

But it’s OK, I soon had a distraction in the shape of Saturday night …

Saturday night was a real treat – Pimms O’clock (that’s the official name, right?) followed by a formal dinner in the Hall.  Oh yes, didn’t I tell you?  We ate all our meals beneath the watchful gaze of Queenie (founder of the college):

SONY DSC

SONY DSC

And Charles I and Lawrence of Arabia (bottom left):

SONY DSC

That’s just a taste of our imposing and impressive surroundings – it really made the weekend even more dream-like and fabulous, and the staff at Jesus were so friendly and helpful.  I couldn’t ask for more!

Due to rain, the Pimms drinks reception was held in a rather fancy room whose name escapes me, but which contained yet more Queenie:

oxoford queenie 2

And what’s more, she had a cherry earring!oxford Queenie detail

A CHERRY EARRING!

Yep, so she kept watchful gaze over our drinking (for some people the first time they’d tried Pimms) and admiration of everyone’s gladrags, then it was off to dinner and another highlight …

Our after dinner speaker was Ian Frazer Wallace, someone I admit I hadn’t heard of … and I wasn’t the only one – many of us went a-Googling and found precious little about this mysterious corseteer.  Then Julia posted this video of his work on famed burlesque dancer, Immodesty Blaise (mild bottom nudity towards end of video):

Polly Fey in more Ziad Ghanem, made in collaboration with Ian Frazer Wallace.   Image from Fashion PR.

Polly Fey in more Ziad Ghanem, made in collaboration with Ian Frazer Wallace.
Image from Fashion PR.

Ian made the green and white corsets in collaboration with designer Ziad Ghanem.  Wow, eh?  That soon cleared things up, so when the conference finally came around, we were all excited to hear Ian’s talk and he did not disappoint.  An interesting fellow and an enlightening speech, giving us a glimpse into the fashion world’s take on corsetry, with interjections from his muse, Polly Fey (also glimpsed in the video – second model to walk out on the finale, corsetted, shaved head, many tattoos, looks awesome).  It was something of a double act!

Could things get any better?  Turns out they could – these two weren’t a pair of snooty fashionistas, here for their talk, then off to something more important, despite what Hollywood films might lead us to expect.  No, they stayed all night, hit the bar with us, chatted, drank, giggled, entertained, hugged and were just generally delightful company, fun people and genuinely, well, nice.  They spoke to everyone, sharing advice, showing interest and giving encouragement.  (Ian wished me luck with my photo shoot when I said good night and teased me for sewing in the bar at midnight, since I still hadn’t finished my corset for the shoot and it turned out mine was in the morning!)

So it was that I ended up tottering to my room at 2am, tired, but inspired.

Thus endeth Saturday at the conference – just one day left!

Read Full Post »


I’ve got some time off work at the moment, so I had a little book-shopping-binge (my favourite kind of binge) and have been catching up on some much-needed reading.

TheAlchemistOfSouls-197x300In the fiction corner we have the first book of Anne Lyle’s Night’s Masque series, The Alchemist of Souls.  Historical fantasy with grit and wit, set in a fantasy version of Elizabethan England, what’s not to like?  The touches of humour (this isn’t a Terry Pratchett, all-out comedy fantasy, just to clarify!) and the period are definitely putting me in mind of Black Adder the Second, which is a compliment in my books, since I was raised on Black Adder and it’s still one of my favourite TV shows of all time.  At the same time, Lyle has created something intriguing and unique and it’s got me looking forward to my reading sessions to find out what happens next!  If you’re not sure, you can even get a sample of the first three chapters on Anne Lyle’s website.  What’ve you got to lose?!

OK, if you need any more persuasion, I am seriously crushing on her dark, dashing and dangerous main character, Mal.  A definite ding dong.  Go read it already.

The rest has been non-fiction, which is unusual to me, as usually the weighting of my reading pile is towards novels, but I suppose I’m on research mode.

45 master characters

No prizes for predicting there would be some writing books in my list.  I’ve been dipping into 45 Master Characters by Victoria Lynn-Schmidt over the past day or so.  I’m very interested in archetypes, which is what she’s based her ‘master characters’ on, so I’ve been interested in this book for a while.  There’s some good stuff in here, but as always I’d warn against wholesale acceptance of anyone’s advice (mine included!), be it on writing or anything else.  I’d like to speak about this one in more depth, so that’s for another post.  (Also, I’d like to wait until I’ve read it all, before I really comment on it.)

 

20 master plots

I’ve been pondering plot, as A Thief & A Gentlewoman follows quite a complex one and that makes me worry whether the structure works.  For now, I think it’s best to wait until I’ve written it to really see whether my plans were off the mark or not, but that hasn’t stopped me reading up on the subject.  The Writer’s Journey is a well-known book on the subject, which I’ve had on my shelves for a while now, waiting to be read.  Vogler also draws on archetype, using stories ranging back to myth and legend to the present to help formulate his theories.  I’ve just started this one, so further thoughts to come on another day.  Similarly, 20 Master Plots: And How to Build Them is another book I’ve been dipping into, but haven’t yet finished.  More when I do!

colour on clothI’ve got it into my head that I want to try dyeing fabric.  (I blame my friend Karen who was foolish enough to let me touch some amazing sandwashed silk satin she had bought and dyed.  Seriously, I was sat there stroking this stuff for at least half and hour – it feels like peach-skin, but softer and silkier and lovelier and just … swoon!  It’s cheaper and easier to get hold of in its loomstate (undyed) form, so, hence the need for dye.)  Anyway, being a bibliophile (like you hadn’t realised), I needed a book, so I ‘invested’ (ahem) in Ruth Isset’s Colour on Cloth, which is full of pretty colour and instructions on how to use it to make fabric and/or paper even more fabulous.  There are some amazing techniques you can try, which I didn’t even have any idea of, so I’m itching to have a go at this.  Some bits are a bit complicated-sounding, but I’ve been using the internet alongside this book, which has helped me find some simplified and adjusted ways of doing things.

My mind was blown by Claire Shaeffer’s Couture Sewing Techniques.  It’s a real eye-opener to not only how to use couture methods, but also the real (massive) difference between couture clothing and ready-to-wear.  There are things in this book that I really had no idea were even things.  And I’m so wowed by it that I can’t even put it any more elegantly!

I have a new appreciation for the kind of work that goes into a garment like this.  Alexander McQueen, 2008, haute couture.

I have a new appreciation for the kind of work that goes into a garment like this. Alexander McQueen, 2008, haute couture.

Shaeffer’s book is a classic for stitchers going beyond the basics and my next book is a classic for those whose stitching strays into corset construction territory.  Corsets: Historic Patterns and Techniques contains patterns and colour photos, together with notes, for 24 corsets (and stays*) from the 1750s to WWI.  This is a great way of getting a range of patterns (though they would need enlarging and checking against your measurements, so this isn’t a task for the beginner) for corsetry and generally having a good old bit of costume perving at some stunning garments.  The Black Corset with Blue Flossing from 1890 on page 74 is utterly stunning.  I’m feeling a real need to make this pattern.  Bad photo below:

Flossing, cording, boning, oh my!

Flossing and cording and boning, oh my!

I’ve recently finished a City & Guilds qualification in corsetry, so this book is definitely going to be put to good use.

And that’s about it for my recent reading endeavours.  For now, I think I’m due some dinner and another installment of The Alchemist of Souls.

* The term ‘corset’ for an undergarment only really began to be used widely in English in the 19th century, before this they were called ‘stays’ (mostly through the 17th and 18th centuries) or ‘bodies’ or ‘a pair of bodies’ (with various spellings, mainly in the 16th century).  The latter being where the word ‘bodice’ comes from.

Read Full Post »