On Tuesday night I made a toile of the bodice of the Butterick B4790 wrap dress. It required a few adjustments from the original pattern:
(What I didn’t realise at the time is that I somehow missed out one of the darts on the underskirt – with that correction, the underskirt/front bodice section sits a lot better.)
Of course, the full overskirt will be attached at the natural waist – you can see the bottom of the wrap part, pinned closed at the front, where the overskirt will be attached.
I’ve lowered the neckline slightly – high necklines are not a good look on me – and have made the shoulder straps a fair bit shorter. That’s not much of a surprise – I think it’s fairly well established that at 5’2” and a bit, I’m not the ‘average height’ patterns tend to be made for, and I suspect I’m a bit high-waisted. I’ve also written a note to myself on the toile to bring the shoulders in by about a centimetre as they were threatening to fall off my shoulders.
I had great intentions of drawing up the changes on my paper pattern pieces on Wednesday night, but I woke up feeling pretty rotten on Wednesday and after a day at work sneezing and sore-throating, I just wanted to lollop on the sofa for the evening … and the next evening and the next.
So it wasn’t until tonight (well, as it’s gone midnight, it’s now last night – Saturday night, at any rate) that I traced the toile onto greaseproof paper (what I use for my patterns). Here’s my pattern laid over the original:
Here you can see my adjustments on the front bodice/underskirt a lot more clearly. The darts on front and back were perfect for me – I was glad I didn’t have to fiddle with those. While B shows that I’ve made the shoulders shorter, A shows that I’ve made the neckline a lot lower by comparison – high necklines look dowdy on me and actually make my bust look bigger (a large expanse of fabric will do that!). C shows that I’ve also brought the shoulders in as I have quite a small frame above the waist – the original shoulders stuck out too much on me. At D you can see how much shorter I’ve made the skirt (22″ from the waist) – below knee-length also looks dowdy on me (and makes my legs look even shorter!) – and that I’ve made the underskirt slightly A-line. I’ve done this because: I don’t like skirts too tight around my legs; I have wide hips and a straight-cut skirt as on the pattern would have left a larger gap down the back or might even have pulled; the little extra fullness might help the volume of the overskirt a little bit.
Anyway – I’m enjoying working on this pattern, though I am finding it slightly weird to work without seam allowances (the raw edges will be bound with bias tape). Next time I’ll have to show you the cute buttons I’ve chosen …